The Luxury Timepiece Revolution: How Bangle Watches Are Redefining Style and Strategy
In the ever-evolving world of luxury, a quiet revolution is taking place—one that’s transforming how we perceive timepieces. Bangle watches are no longer just accessories; they’re becoming the heartbeat of growth for heritage brands. But here’s where it gets fascinating: these aren’t your grandmother’s watches. They’re a bold fusion of fine watchmaking and high jewelry, blurring the lines between fashion statement and functional asset. And this is the part most people miss—it’s not just about looking good; it’s a strategic shift to captivate younger, style-conscious consumers in a maturing luxury market.
Take Vacheron Constantin’s Grand Lady Kalla, for instance. Unveiled as the crown jewel of its 270th-anniversary celebrations, this masterpiece now comes in sapphire, ruby, and emerald variations, following its all-diamond debut in 2024. What’s truly groundbreaking? Its interchangeable components allow it to transform from a timepiece into a bracelet or necklace, seamlessly merging artistry with technical precision. It’s a watch, but it’s so much more—a testament to the brand’s ability to innovate while honoring tradition.
But here’s where it gets controversial: Are bangle watches jewelry, or are they timepieces? The debate rages on, but Rémi Jomard, director of product and innovation at Piaget, cuts through the noise with a quote from Yves Piaget: “A watch is first and foremost a piece of jewelry.” Bold statement? Absolutely. But it’s hard to argue when you see the success of brands like Cartier, whose 2023 reintroduction of the Baignoire watch on a rigid gold bracelet sparked a frenzy. Priced at €15,900, the 18ct yellow and rose gold versions sold out within months, only to reappear later that autumn. Marie-Laure Cérède, Cartier’s director of watchmaking and jewellery design, sums it up perfectly: “Our approach had to be understated yet radical. That’s why we chose the bangle—radical in its simplicity.”
The trend isn’t limited to Cartier. In 2019, Van Cleef & Arpels unveiled its Perlée Toi & Moi watches, open bangles topped with colorful hardstones like rose quartz and jasper. Slide one stone aside, and voilà—the time is revealed. Dior’s Gem Dior, launched in 2021, featured irregular, jagged links that mimicked fabric swatches and gemstone facets, while Chaumet’s Joséphine Aigrette drew inspiration from its best-selling jewelry line honoring Napoleon’s first wife. Even Boucheron joined the fray with its Montres d’Exception collection, one model tracing the outline of Place Vendôme across its dial.
And this is the part most people miss: This isn’t just a trend; it’s a cultural shift. Kelly Best, head of UK watch buying for Watches of Switzerland, notes that Cartier’s Baignoire succeeded because it ticked all the boxes—smaller case size, timeless precious metals, and a sleek bangle perfect for layering. Donatella Zappieri, a jewelry business consultant, goes further, calling it “a new product category in its own right.”
This autumn, the trend continued with Bvlgari’s Aeterna and Chanel’s Première Galon. Bvlgari’s open bangle features two geometric snake heads, a subtler take on its iconic Serpenti motif, while Chanel’s design draws inspiration from Gabrielle Chanel’s use of braids in her couture. Arnaud Chastaingt, Chanel’s Watchmaking Creation Studio director, leaves us with a thought-provoking question: “Is it jewelry that tells time, or a watch that functions as a jewel?”
Here’s the million-dollar question: As bangle watches continue to redefine luxury, will they remain a niche trend, or are they the future of timepieces? Do they prioritize style over functionality, or do they strike the perfect balance? Let us know your thoughts in the comments—this is one debate that’s far from over.